North Point Trousers

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Since learning how to sew, I’ve become so picky with how my pants fit that I now only own two pairs of pants: these Ginger jeans and these crazy elastic-waisted Sadie pants. All of my other pairs of pants (both RTW and me-made–see failed Colette Clovers here) have been given away or trashed. With the arrival of fall, I decided that it was time to make a proper pair of pants for myself. Enter the North Point Trousers by Itch to Stitch.

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This is my first foray into Itch to Stitch Patterns. Most of their line isn’t my style, but the North Point Trousers looked are a solid, basic, classic pants pattern. All of the reviews that I read online were favorable, and it seemed like most people had decent luck with fitting them to their bodies.

I made a size 0 at the waist, graded into a size 2 at the hips. The pattern contains very detailed instructions on grading between sizes between the waist and hips that I really appreciated. With the front pocket, there are a number of pieces that need to be tweaked. It’s not a huge deal for me because I was just grading one size up, but if you’re grading between 2 or more sizes, these would really come in handy. Otherwise, I didn’t make any fit changes to the pattern at all (I did only do one welt pocket though). I even hemmed them the length directed (I’m 5’5.5″ tall).

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My one complaint about this pattern is the construction of the front pockets. There are many steps that involve zigzagging layers of lining fabric together, which is rationalized by minimizing bulk. However, my front pockets are still visible through the legs pants, and the zigzagging does not feel very secure. I ended up going over key areas of the zigzag stitching many times.

The fabric I used is a super basic stretch suiting from Joann’s. It’s the same fabric (but in a different color) that I used to make my dissertation proposal defense dress. I was optimistic but not confident in my ability to fit these pants, so I didn’t want to go breaking the bank on fabric for this first version. I’m interested to see these made up in a stretch twill, and may try that for my next version.

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Going back to my opening comment about fit, I’m not saying that the fit on these is 100% spot on, but I MADE PANTS THAT FIT! After looking at these pictures, I think that I will narrow the lower leg a little bit on the next pair, hem them slightly shorter, lower the welt pockets, and work on those wrinkles around the knees in the front (any thoughts??). Overall, though, I am very happy with them.

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Closet Case Patterns released their Sasha Trousers pattern immediately after I finished making these up. If it had come out earlier, I almost definitely would have picked up that pattern instead, since I had such great luck with their Ginger jeans. It looks pretty similar to the North Point pattern, but appears to have much less ease, potentially even negative ease(?), resulting in a very slim fit. I only need one classic pants pattern in my life, though, so I plan on concentrating on the fit on these rather than jumping on the new shiny band wagon.

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Pattern: North Point Trousers by Itch to Stitch
Fabric: 1.5 yards red stretch suiting from Joann’s @ $7.79/yd, lining from stash (leftover from lining this dress)
Notions: Zipper, thread, interfacing, hook and eyes from stash
Cost:  =  $11.69 ($23.69 if you count the cost of the pattern)
Time: 5 hours
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